The Meaning Of Thread “Tex”
Tex is a unit of measurement used to describe the linear density of a fiber or thread.
It is defined as the weight in grams of a kilometer of thread or fiber.
For example, a sewing thread with a “tex” of 40 would weigh 40 grams per kilometer.
Tex is often used in the textile industry to describe the thickness or weight of a thread.
Typical maxi-lock all-purpose thread weight
Thread weight is a measurement of length and the lower the number the heavier the thread.
Typical maxi-lock thread is 40 weight, meaning that 40 kilometers of 40 weight thread would weigh 1 kg.
A 30 weight thread would be heavier and only require 30 kilometers to weight the same.
40 weight maxi-lock thread works best with a 90/14 size needle.
Extra strong thread use in sewing machines
Heavy threads are absolutely stunning to work with.
Whether hand quilting stand-out stitches or machine quilting bold outlines, the beautiful textural effects of thick, strong thread is appealing.
While it’s certainly important to consider thread strength requirements for structural purposes, don’t forget the aesthetic appeal of thick extra strength threads.
Thread types (and number) to use on a serger
Regular thread DOES work on a serger sewing machine, but will run out more quickly.
The number of threads to use at one time depends on the machine.
A 2-4 serger sewing machine requires two to four threads, depending on setting.
Likewise, a 3-4 Serger requires a minimum of three and maximum of four threads and a 5 thread serger machine requires five threads.
About quilting with regular thread
You can quilt with regular thread, I often use a fine, strong two-ply 50 or 60 weight thread for piecing.
I find that it allows me to sew true quarter inch seams.
50 weight thread works, but you can sometimes see your stitches, so use the 60 weight, or even bigger 80 or 100 weight thread, when possible.
How to choose the right thread for sewing
Thread is available in many weights and sizes. Matching thread thickness with fabric thickness and weight generally gives good results.
Typically, thick thread is stronger and more visible than fine thread, so determine how much seam stress your sewing project will be subjected to and choose thread thickness accordingly.
The best starter sewing thread (most commonly used)
In speaking with other seamstresses, I find that 50 weight polyester cotton blend thread is the most commonly used thread, for most project types.
It is suitable for use with a wide range of fabrics, including stretch.
With experience, preferences change, but for starting out you can’t go wrong with a good polyester cotton blend thread.
Sewing thread size, fabric and needle chart
This sewing thread size chart quickly suggests the best thread size to use with different fabric weights.
It also suggests the best needle size to use with the thread.
| Thread Weight(Size) | Fabric Type | Needle Size |
|---|---|---|
| 80-50 wt. | Light Fabric | 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 75/11 |
| 50-40 wt. | Medium Fabric | 75/11, 80/12, 90/14 |
| 40-20 wt. | Heavy Fabric | 100/16, 110/18, 120/19 |
Simple trick for testing thread quality
Hold a length of thread between your thumb and finger and press against the thread lightly with your thumbnail.
Pull the thread gently and let your nail lightly “scratch” the thread.
A high quality thread will remain tightly bound, but a low quality thread will develop small, broken and loose fibers that point outwards.
Strong thread is called heavy-duty thread
Outside industrial applications, the strongest thread available for use in home sewing projects is called heavy-duty thread.
Modern heavy-duty thread most often has a core made of a strong material wrapped in a more traditional thread material.
Heavy-duty thread is ideal for use with embroidery sewing projects.
